Think of lush green forests, castles, and a winding river, and you think of the Dordogne. The French region could be a setting to a medieval fairy tale, and you would almost think you are its main character. When Wessel and I arrived at the Domaine de la Banne, the house Wessels parents had rented for a week, I certainly felt that way. We were the last to arrive, and as we approached the group of people sitting by the pool, we were greeted with rosé. A good start to the week, I would say!
The property owned by Neill and David was lush and home to many romantic outdoor seating options, a refreshing pool, and myriad outdoor games like Ping-Pong and jeu de boule. With a wonderfully large kitchen and large, comfortable beds, I think we could have spent the week just at the house without complaint. However, as we are all active people, the Dordogne had far more to offer, which we were all excited to try. So, if you want to know more about what the best activities are in the Dordogne Valley, then read along!
Canoeing and Kayaking
While we spent the first day lounging by the pool, playing beach ball, and reading, the second day we were up for some adventure. So, we put on our bathing suits, and headed to the river to rent three kayaks and a canoe at CanoeSphère. As we got to the river, it was sunny outside, and once we got our gear and decided on a route and pick-up point, we took off.
The surface of the river was smooth, but there was enough current that could carry us if we got tired. Starting from Ceynac, we kayaked past beautiful castles and medieval towns. The first one we passed was La Roque-Gageac, a beautiful town built against a steep cliff with a castle on top. Two minutes away, we got out of the water to eat our pre-packed sandwiches and drink a café-au-lait. As we pulled our boats to the shore, it started to pour down, however. Luckily, there were parasols under which we could shelter, and when it stopped raining, we got onto the river again.
However, five minutes later it started pouring down again. In no time all of us were soaked, and by the time we got to the next bridge where we could have potentially taken shelter, we did not care anymore. The rain could have totally bummed us out, but once we accepted it, I feel like it made the experience even better. Yes, we did not have the classic sun-soaked, picture-perfect view of the castles we were expecting to have, but we laughed so much. I know this is like telling a funny story where you should have been there to find it funny, but trust me: it was hilarious.
Although our views were not what we expected them to be, they were stunning, nonetheless. I pictured medieval traders going down the rivers with their goods while the castles were shrouded in a magical fog. With any weather, the Dordogne is beautiful, and seeing the castles from the river is the way to see them. And as a bonus you get a great upper body workout!
Cycling Through the Countryside
As if we could not get enough, the next day we decided to rent bikes and explore the Dordogne from the land this time. We figured after training the upper body, our lower body needed some exercise too. This time, we rented our bikes from Bike Bus in Castelnaud-la-Chapelle, where they had mountain bikes for tall people too!
With three normal mountain bikes and two e-bikes, we started our trail, which quite deliberately did not follow the river like the day before, but took us further into the countryside. Our first stop along the way was the picturesque town of Daglan, with light-stone houses, pastel shutters, and a small romantic church. The way there was a little bit hilly but not too much. Moreover, on the e-bike any hill was peanuts, so I had nothing to complain, and could relax and enjoy the view.
After Daglan, the terrain got a little steeper, as we cycled through orchards, fields, and forests. Once we conquered one of our last climbs of the day, we made it the city of Domme. Unfortunately, I forgot to take pictures (present Amber is shaking her head in disappointment at past Amber), so you just have to believe me when I say the town was magnificent. A citadel perched on a hill overlooking the countryside, with many idyllic small cafés and restaurants, where we sat down to have a drink.
Once we descended to the river, and got back to Bike Bus, we were not as exhausted as the day before, but still felt like we had a good amount of exercise. Exploring the Dordogne by bike is very different from doing it by boat, as you are much faster and can basically take the bike anywhere you want. It also gives you the option to cycle into the towns and explore a little more. I would recommend doing both activities though, as you cannot beat the views from the water, even when it’s raining!
Visit the Market in Sarlat-la-Canéda
After two active days, it was time for some slower sight-seeing. We took the car for a one-hour drive to Sarlat-la-Canéda, a slightly bigger town where every Wednesday and Saturday there is a market that takes up the entire city. From truffle-based products to vegetable stands to home-made goods, you can find many edible souvenirs to take home with you, or just eat that very same day.
As we were there in peak tourist season, it was very busy. Especially expect to hear a lot of Dutch when you are there, as this region is very popular with our little country! Although I felt a little overwhelmed at first by the amount of choice and people, we set out to get our groceries for the barbecue we had planned that evening. Quickly we found the variety of tomatoes and fresh plums we needed for our salad, and fresh potatoes we were planning on broiling. After trying these goods, I keep trying to find those colorful tomatoes at home, but unfortunately never do.
The rest of the afternoon we spent exploring the town and taking lots of pictures, of which most of them you can find on my Instagram page. The cobbled streets with old gaslit lamps and many castle-like towers make this a very special place. For a more tranquil experience, I would visit the town on a day when there is no market, or in the shoulder-season. The market made our barbecue a success though, so if you have the time, I would give both a try!
Final Thoughts
All in all, the Dordogne is a magical place to visit. While it might not be the most adventurous place in the world, it has some special activities to offer, which will allow you to enjoy its lush and soft landscape in its full glory. If you are a history lover, or have a strong imagination, this fairytale country is for you! However, if you rather go off the beaten path, visiting the region in the shoulder- or off-seasons might be better, so you can beat the crowds. Want to know more about the cuisine the Dordogne has to offer? Then tune in next week for my detailed review!
