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Ever since reading Kate Mosse’s Languedoc trilogy, I have wanted to see the fairy-tale-like city of Carcassonne for myself. With its ancient, fortified city walls and its cobblestone streets, I can imagine the power of inspiration that takes hold of writers all over the world. And even game-developers! I cannot count the numerous times I have played the board game called Carcassonne with friends and family, where you try to build as many roads and village with little animated squares as possible. Although it is not always a good idea, I had very high expectations of the city…
Leaving Mundaka
That morning, we left Mundaka as early as possible, as there was a long drive ahead of us: we had to drive from the Atlantic Coast, all the way to the Mediterranean, and up. It was a sad goodbye, as we completely fell in love with Mundaka and its surfing culture, but all good things must come to an end and make room for new ones! So, taking to the highway, we crossed the border quickly into France, and drove for hours, North of the Pyrenees. The drive was absolutely stunning: swapping the green and lush mountains of Basque Country for the dry fields and yellow-green peaks of the Pyrenees.
Although we already missed Mundaka, we were happy to be sleeping in an actual bed that night. The second night in Mundaka, our air mattress was leaking. While we bought a new one, the nights still were not as comfortable as we were used to with our large, lovely mattress that was now broken. So, when I saw the amazing deal on Booking.com for a stay in a bed and breakfast near Carcassonne, I knew we had to go for it.
Arriving at our Bed and Breakfast for the Elderly
As we finally arrived in Mazamet, we quickly figured out that our hotel was not your regular hotel. We tried to call the owner, as we were trying to get in while the fence was locked, but they did not answer. Standing there, lost, a lovely couple told us to ring the neighbor’s doorbell, as they would know how we could get in. The man opened the door, told us to wait inside, and as we told him what we came for, he had no clue. Luckily, at that point, an elderly lady called Marie walked by and told us she lived at our bed and breakfast and would open the gate for us.
As we finally walked into the massive, renovated mansion, we figured out it was both an elderly home and a bed and breakfast, which especially catered to elderly as well: with an elevator and extra amenities in the bath- and bedrooms to help people move around. Wessel and I looked at each other, and both thought this would be a good place to spend our retirement.
Finally, we found the owner, who spoke little English. We speak a little French, and we managed to communicate with our limited vocabulary and hands and feet. The owner was a true host! Inviting us for a lovely breakfast the next day with homemade croissants, madeleines, and other breads (unfortunately not gluten-free but very pretty to look at). He made amazing coffee, juice, and scrambled eggs for me, and truly made us feel at home! The home was also stunning, with a very large kitchen, a beautiful grand piano, two lovely sitting rooms, and a big garden. I would 10/10 recommend you stay at Les Pénates for the hospitality, impeccable taste, and the quiet of the French countryside.
Dinner at le Bar à Vins de la Cité
Our B&B host told us we could call him and park the car inside the gates as we got back from Carcassonne that evening, and said we did not have to worry about the time: he would still be up. So, having showered and having put on some fresh clothes, we stepped into the car again to finally visit Carcassonne. It was about a one hour drive, and the road took us through forests and over hills, that were incredibly windy (picture me grabbing the wheel so tight, my knuckles are turning white and my palms are sweaty). As we descended into the valley, we had a gorgeous view of the city and the mountains in the background.
After finding a cheap parking spot, we walked towards la cité. Crossing the canal that winds around the city, and walking up the hill towards the gates, I could not help but imagine myself as the protagonist from Kate Mosse’s Citadel. Once we entered the city, we were met by a throng of people. We were hoping our late arrival would mean that most day-tourists had left. But, if this was a quiet evening, I would not want to be there during the day! We walked around the small city center, passing many adorable shops and crooked, medieval houses. They sold lavender and truffles everywhere you could look, and although most shops were catered to tourists, I still felt the authenticity of the history of the city. It literally pulses through every stone and tree in sight!
After a bit of walking around, my stomach started to rumble loudly, and we rushed to find a place to eat. We passed a stone arch through which we could see a lovely terrace with string lights and a fun looking bar. A sign said: Bar à Vins de la Cité (translated: winebar of the Cité). Once again, Wessel and I looked at each other and thought this would not be a bad place to spend our evening. We ordered a coke (for our designated driver) and a local wine that came from the city (for myself), and paired it with a cheese platter that came in a box. Still hungry after the soft, French cheese, I ordered a beef stew and Wessel a beef tartare. Everything was phenomenal, and I would definitely recommend you spend some time here for drinks or a small dinner.
Carcassonne’s Golden Hour
After we finished our dinner, we decided to walk around some more, now that the crowds had thinned, and take some pictures. And, truthfully, I could not put my camera down. The light of the setting sun seemed to make the city sparkle with gold. The term ‘Golden Hour’ never felt more applicable. Even now, a couple of months later, I can still see that picture clearly, and feel the magic I felt in that moment. If some kind of mystical creature would have visited us in that moment, I would not be surprised!
All in all, Carcassonne is definitely worth the hype! There are probably many more restaurants for you to try and loads of wineries and hikes in the region to experience. Although we only had one evening there, we enjoyed it thoroughly. I would also recommend going in the evening, like we did, to see the city in the setting sun, or even visit it early in the morning, so you can see the sun rise over the castle. Whatever you decide, do not forget to take many, many pictures, you won’t regret it!
