Although San Sebastián was on our list, we did not expect to be there so soon. After having left the Dordogne we headed out to Biarritz, only to find out the city was filled to the brim with people, due to the Fêtes de Bayonne. Deciding to save the city for another day, we drove an extra hour to San Sebastián, the foodie capital of the world, or so we had heard.
That day was a chain of bad luck, so once we got to our camping spot at WeCamp, we were tired and starving. Although the Basque Country greeted us with rain and our camping spot was smaller than we expected (we had to set up our tent on a camper-site), we were equally excited to taste this food we heard so much about! After having set up our tent, we put on some fresh clothes and took the bus to the city center, which left from our campsite every thirty minutes (how convenient!).
Gandarias, Pinxtos Bar and Restaurant
After a quick search on Google Maps, we went to Gandarias, which was said to have a separate gluten-free menu. Furthermore, it was rated as one of the best Pinxtos bars in town. Intrigued, we entered the very busy restaurant, and could not figure out whether there was a logic to the chaos. Although we decided to leave to find a place where we could sit, we quickly figured out the best places were pinxtos bars where you ate your food standing. Still curious to whether Gandarias was that good, we decided to place an order.
Then we found out there was a logic to the chaos, and that the staff was super fast! I have never seen such a well-oiled machine in any restaurant that was as busy as this one. The staff told us that only the food on the menu could be made entirely gluten-free in a celiac-safe environment, and that the pinxtos displayed on the bar could be contaminated with gluten. Thinking the pinxtos that were made in the kitchen would be minus the bread, I was pleasantly surprised they did come on gluten-free bread, which made me happy as I could truly experience the pinxtos culture of the Basque Country now.
We ordered a glass of white wine as well and the bartender recommended the albariño, which became our favorite wine in Spain. Because the food was so good, we went back the next day for a quick lunch and another glass of albariño. We had lam skewers, shrimp, stew, risotto, and the best according to a couple we met there: the grilled beef sirloin. It was cooked perfectly: crispy on the outside, rosé on the inside, yet still hot enough and covered in sea salt flakes. In the end we only had food at their pinxtos bar, not at their restaurant (for which they have a separate menu), but we definitely will the next time we are in San Sebastián. And trust me, we will be back!
Dinner at Txoko
After having had some wine and pinxtos at Gandarias, we still craved a bigger plate of food. So, we decided to walk towards the beach, and try to find a restaurant there. There we found Txoko, a small restaurant with a menu largely consisting of seafood. Only one kind lady waited the tables, and she made sure we had everything we needed. Wessel ended up ordering the seafood salad, and I ordered the fish soup, because I was not that hungry anymore. However, when our food came, mine came in a large copper bowl with a serving spoon in it. Although it was super filling and probably half a liter, it was the best fish soup I’ve ever had! I would definitely recommend this place if you wanted a more quiet dinner, but beforehand make sure to ask if they provide a celiac-safe environment, as I did not have to.
Breakfast at Koh Tao
The next morning we decided to have breakfast in the city, as there was no gluten-free bread left and non available at the campsite’s supermarket. Furthermore, as we had not had a proper cup of coffee since we left home (sorry France), we craved a strong cappuccino. When we walked past Koh Tao, I did not want to go in because I thought they would be serving Thai food, but Wessel insisted we should take a look. And yes, he was right, it was a coffee and breakfast place which catered to travelers.
Although they did not have a lot of gluten-free options, they did have gluten-free bread which was possible with some of the breakfast dishes. I opted for an açai bowl though, and Wessel ordered the Norwegian special with salmon. While our two cappuccino’s and two cortado’s were perfect, the açai bowl was unfortunately not that good. Probably because they added kiwi to the bowl, while it also contained yoghurt (kiwi makes yoghurt go sour). If you want a nice place to work on your laptop and drink good coffee though, this is the place for you!
Urgull Mountain
Although initially we did not know what else to do besides eat (which I would have been happy to do all day), we heard the view of the city from Urgull mountain was pretty spectacular. So, we set out to climb. We walked on the edge of the water most of the time, looking out over the rough sea, realizing we would head out there to go surfing very soon.
Multiple paths lead up to the top of the mountain, which is graced with a large statue of Jesus. The walk through the small forest that covered the mountain was pleasantly cool: we were shaded by very green trees which made us feel like we were in a jungle. Once we got to the top, the views were definitely amazing. We could see the entirety of the city and the many mountains behind it. The hike itself was also pretty short and easy. With a café on one side of the mountain it would also be a perfect place for a glass of wine, or a picnic!
La Concha Beach
After having taken plenty photos of the view from Urgull Mountain, we decided to wander around the city a bit, have lunch at Gandarias again, and walk down La Concha Beach. As the sun finally broke through the clouds, people flocked the long, crescent moon-shaped beach to swim and sunbathe. If you have an afternoon off to chill, this would be the place! With hundreds of amazing restaurants close-by, you never have to leave the city.
Unfortunately, we did not bring our bathing suits and towels, so we decided to get some groceries and spend the rest of the afternoon at our campsite’s pool. This was a good call, as we had to get up early the next morning to get to our next destination in time. Although we would have loved to eat at Gandarias again, a ‘home’-cooked meal was also a welcome and healthy change. Furthermore, this allowed us to chat with our new neighbors and have an early night!
Final Thoughts
We would love to go back to San Sebastián one day, hopefully to try one of their famous Michelin-star restaurants (but mostly to eat at Gandarias again). The city has a great ambiance and architecture, and the people we met were hospitable, friendly, and down to earth. As one of the restaurants was super gluten-free friendly, I am not concerned about more like those popping up if we would go back. And on the plus side, the prices were friendly too. In short, San Sebastián (and the whole of Basque country to be fair), should be at the top of your travel bucket list!
