Note! As I am gluten-intolerant and can have small bits of gluten, these restaurants might not be fit for those who are celiac. Always make sure to call ahead or inform yourself when going to any restaurant that does not advertise with a celiac safe kitchen.
Baguettes, croissants, cheese and wine: besides the city of love, Paris is the city of food. With artisanal bakeries serving the most delicious pastries everywhere, the city is packed with gluten. As we walked around the city for the first time, I was wondering if gluten free Paris even existed. But sure enough, if you know where to find them, there are gluten free bakeries and restaurants aplenty.
Paris was our first stop on our three-week roadtrip through France and Spain in 2023. Although we arrived in the afternoon, starting our stay in Paris with lunch, this gluten free Paris itinerary starts with breakfast. As you might not have a friend like Laurence who lends you her apartment in the Marais, or take the car to Paris, I start this guide by telling you how to get there and where to stay. But don’t worry, there are enough gluten free goodies packed inside to get you through your gluten free Paris trip!
How to Get to Paris
Even though we took the car as the Dordogne was our next stop, it is much more convenient to take the train, so you can start your gluten free Paris trip while utterly relaxed (Parisian traffic is mental). There are multiple connections between Paris and other major cities in Europe, but by far my favorite is the Thalys running between Amsterdam and the city of love. I frequently use Trainline to find the best rates and departure times: when you pick a date, it immediately shows you the cheapest dates to plan your train trip. No need to scoure the internet for individual train operators: you can find it all on Trainline.
While I would recommend anyone to travel by train for environmental concerns, for those of us on the other side of the world flying might be your only option to get to enjoy gluten free Paris. If you are a frequent reader of the blog, you know I love Skyscanner. With their flexible dates option and ability to show you the cheapest flights, it is the perfect platform to plan your travels. Paris also has a number of airports, meaning you can fly there from nearly anywhere in the world.
Where to Stay
We were lucky enough to stay at a friend’s place, but if you do not have such connections in the city, I have listed the best hotels and hostels for you to try so you can make the most of your gluten free Paris trip!
Top 3 Hotels in Paris
Staying in a hotel in Paris is not cheap. I have listed three of what I think are extra special accommodations, but if you want a hotel for less than €100 a night, it is best to book one in one of its many surrounding villages or its outer neighborhoods.
- This is surely a hidden gem! Ever wanted to stay in a Parisian apartment to see if life here would suit you? Then you must stay at this cosy flat in Montmartre. It is small, like most apartments in Paris, but has all the amenities you might need, plus it is located in what I think is one of the most beautiful neighborhoods from where you can explore gluten free Paris.
- Staying at the classic Chatillon Paris Montparnasse in the 14th arrondissement is perfect for those looking to stay in one of Paris’ residential areas. You can escape the hustle and bustle here and truly relax after tasting everything gluten free Paris has to offer. Plus, you will be pleased to know that both this and the former apartment usually cost between €100 and €150 a night, which is average for Paris.
- I adore hotels with great and funky designs. If you are like me and would love to spend your travel budget on a hotel experience like that, then you must stay at 25hours Hotel Terminus Nord. The rooms sport multiple types of printed wallpaper, colorful bedspreads and fun design choices regarding lighting and more. As it is located between Gare du Nord and Gare de l’Est, it is perfect for those journeying to their gluten free Paris adventure by train.
Top 3 Hostels in Paris
You got to give it to the Parisians: they make some very special and luxurious hostels! While I have listed one of the most special below, you can check out the rest of what Paris has to offer on Hostelworld.
- From €35 a night, Jo&Joe Paris – Gentilly probably has the best value for your money. With gorgeous dorms and a great outdoor area, it is perfect for the traveler looking to save money, sleep well and meet friends along their gluten free Paris journey.
- A little steeper in price, but with a phenomenal rooftop terrace overlooking the Place de la Nation and luxurious dorm rooms, The People – Paris Nation is definitely worth staying at. Close to the city center and located in a beautiful neighborhood, I know a hostel like this would make my gluten free Paris adventure extra special.
- Finally, another People hostel which has a stunning view of the Marais: The People Paris Marais. As it is located right in the heart of Paris, it would be a no brainer for me to stay here. Every dorm also has a designated locker, a plug, reading light and blackout curtain, providing the maximum comfort of staying at a hostel. Chosen your accommodation? Then let’s dive back into this gluten free Paris itinerary.
A 24-Hour Itinerary to Gluten Free Paris
Breakfast at Copains: A Gluten Free Paris Bakery
Although our gluten free Paris adventure started at lunch, yours will start at eight AM sharp, so you can be the first customer at the gluten-free bakery Copains, once they open. Knowing the lines in front of my favorite gluten-free bakery in Amsterdam, I was afraid of what I might encounter, which made me decide to get up early. Luckily, there was only one person waiting when I got there! Ever since leaving the Netherlands, I had been looking forward to eating a croissant and a pain-au-chocolat for a while, and once I entered the bakery, I felt like I entered heaven.
The gluten free Paris bakery itself was gorgeous, with all of the pastries and bread displayed like pieces of jewelry. I was overwhelmed with all the options, knowing I could not try them all before we left the next day. So, I of course got a croissant, a pain-au-chocolat, a cinnamon bun, and a small baguette with ham, cheese and pickles for our picnic at the Seine that afternoon.
I could barely wait to eat it, but we decided to have coffee first, at a little café on the corner of the same street, called Le Bouquet des Archives. We ordered two cafés au lait, and Wessel ordered a croissant. The waiter was kind enough to let me eat my gluten-free pastries on the terrace, and dip them in my coffee, gluten free Paris-style.
Although the croissant was good, I unfortunately (although fortunately for me) have to say the croissants at my favorite bakery in Amsterdam are still the best one’s I have ever had: flaky an buttery, while these were a little dark and heavy. The pain-au-chocolat and cinnamon bun were like a dream, though! Read the rest of my gluten free Paris guide for the rest of my bread review, during our Seine-ic picnic.
Morning Activity: Montmartre and the Louvre
After breakfast, start your gluten free Paris day by taking the bus to Montmartre, a neighborhood in Paris that used to be a little village located on a hill (before Paris was the size that it is today). Montmartre is known for its landmark the Sacre Coeur, the Moulin Rouge, and its adorable streets. We felt like we were in the South of France when we walked through those steep streets!
After looking around, take a seat at one of the adorable terraces to order a café-au-lait after. We visited a café with the most Parisian looking chairs and red awnings, overlooking a small courtyard. After finishing your coffee make sure to visit one of the neighborhood’s many fromageries (cheese shops) for your afternoon picnic at the Seine. The cheeses we got were phenomenal, and made us feel right at home here (we are absolute cheese fanatics). Montmartre is thus a must-visit on your gluten free Paris trip!
If you’re an art lover, the Louvre can be the next stop on your gluten free Paris day, home to the Mona Lisa and countless masterpieces. While tickets can sell out online, you might still get lucky by arriving early—just be prepared for a wait. We only recently found out the museum is free for people under 26, meaning we were too late to buy tickets. But, even if you don’t go inside, the iconic glass pyramid and grand architecture make the visit worthwhile. This, along with our plans to visit the Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao so we knew we had some art in the future, made it a perfect first stop on our gluten free Paris adventure.
Lunch at Chez Janou
Your gluten free Paris adventure is not complete without a trip to Chez Janou. As we arrived around lunchtime, our priority was to find a nice spot for lunch. We wanted to skip the crowds and go to the neighborhoods where locals go out to eat, which was the Bastille according to Wessel’s research. Shortly after setting foot in the neighborhood, we spotted a restaurant that checked all the boxes: it had adorable outdoor seating, the inside was just as authentic, we heard mostly French-speaking people, and it was buzzing. Would this be the crown jewel of our gluten free Paris trip?
Chez Janou is located on the corner of the Rue Roger Verlomme and the Rue des Toumelles, with no other restaurant in sight. As it was so busy, we were initially seated at the bar for some drinks, until a table opened up. We ordered a pichet of wine for about eighteen euros, and watched the waiters hustle about. The bar was filled with their eighty or more types of pastis, a traditional French digestif. I am not a big fan of anise, but if you are, pastis is for you!
Once we were seated, we ordered the daily menu, which was a two course meal for eighteen euros (dirt cheap if you ask me!). For every dish there were two options, so Wessel and I both chose the other one so we could try everything. The appetizers were a duck confit salad, and an eggplant carpaccio, both delicious! As a main course, we ordered salmon and some type of meat of which I unfortunately forgot what it was, but fortunately still have the pictures.
For dessert we did not plan on ordering anything, but once we saw the big bowl of chocolate mousse going around, we had to try it! They brought us a plate and two spoons, and filled the plate with three humongous scoops of mousse. With my cappuccino after, and Wessel with his pastis, we were both very happy after that! So, if you are planning a gluten free Paris trip, please give Chez Janou a try. It is absolutely delicious with a great atmosphere, and the prices are friendly too, which is not that easy to find in Paris as I have heard.
Afternoon Activity: Take a Stroll Along the Seine
After a delicious gluten free lunch, it’s time to walk it off with a classic Parisian activity—strolling along the Seine. Paris is best explored on foot, and the wide pedestrian boulevards along the river make for the perfect afternoon walk. Furthermore, most of Paris’ main sights are located along the Seine!
As we started our walk along the river, we spotted joggers, cyclists, and street performers bringing the city to life. Admittedly, the smell of the Seine in the summer was not the best, but the lively atmosphere more than made up for it. Friends gathered around picnic tables, families spread out their blankets, and even some dancers put on an impromptu performance, inspiring the rest of our gluten free Paris itinerary.
From there, we crossed one of Paris’s many beautiful bridges and continued our walk towards the Eiffel Tower—about four kilometers away. As we approached, the crowds thickened (so be prepared for some tourist dodging!), but there’s something magical about seeing this iconic landmark up close. We found a quiet spot, kicked off our shoes, and simply enjoyed the view—sometimes, the best way to take in Paris is to sit back and watch the city move around you.
Pre-Dinner Picnic and Drinks Along the Seine
After the long walk, the best thing to do is sit down in one of the comfortable beach chairs along the Seine or the grass overlooking the Eiffel Tower, and watch the people and boats go by. While we had lunch here on our second day, I would recommend buying a bottle of good French wine and bringing your gluten free baguette and fromage, to make your gluten free Paris adventure complete.
While the baguette at my favorite bakery was better in my humble opinion, any fresh gluten-free bread makes me happy! This one from Copains was definitely a lot healthier than the white baguette I thought I would get once in Paris. While you will probably drink some wine with it, we bought some juice and visited the Bastille and la Marais after to do some shopping, which is a must-do in your gluten free Paris itinerary if you have the time!
Dinner at Le Temps des Cerises
Wessel’s mother had recommended Le Temps des Cerises to us even before we went to Paris, so we knew we had to go there, and so should you if you want that special Parisian culinary experience. We wanted to try escargots (snails) while in Paris, and through some pre-dinner-research, I saw that they indeed served them! Please note, that as this restaurant is a popular spot among both tourists and locals, I would recommend reserving a spot well in advance!
We ordered a pichet of wine again and decided to start with the escargots. They were phenomenal. As they are snails, you would expect them to be slimy, but these were served without their shell in a pesto-dill type-of-sauce. The taste was somewhere between fish and chicken, but very subtle, making them a perfect appetizer. Needless to say, we devoured them.
Wessel ordered a tuna tartare while I was a little bit more hungry than that (as always), so I ordered the Iberico pork. I do not usually order pork, but this one was exceptionally good, and I savored every bite. Afterwards, we shared a café gourmand (I ate what did not contain gluten), and called it a night. The food was a little pricier than Chez Janou, but so worth it. In other words, you better try it out!
Final Thoughts on Gluten Free Paris
And so, our time in Paris came to an end. We had great food, walked a lot, and saw most of the sights on these long walks. However, because of our limited time and little to no planning whatsoever, we could not do or see everything we wanted to. As Paris is so close to Amsterdam, this is pas de problème, as we will most definitely be back! What are you looking forward to visiting in Paris?
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