Note! As I am gluten-intolerant and can have small bits of gluten, these restaurants might not be fit for those who are celiac. Always make sure to call ahead or inform yourself when going to any restaurant that does not advertise with a celiac safe kitchen.
If I could only name one thing Italy is good at (which is hard, as she’s very talented), is food, and especially gluten-free food. There has never been a moment in Italy where I could not eat well. And yes, I know, it is annoying when you always have to get a different dish that does not contain carbs to begin with when you are actually craving pasta. In many restaurants in Italy though, gluten-free pasta and pizza is always an option. This May we went to Sicily, and I can tell you, although we were only there for a week, the food was to die for! With the six of us, we stayed in a lovely house near Marina di Ragusa, in the southern part of the island, and we drove up and down the Eastern coast to both take in the views and the most delicious food. So, without further ado, let’s dig into this gluten free Sicily guide!
How to Get to and Travel Across Gluten Free Sicily
First things first: before you are able to taste the wonderful cuisine of Sicily, you will have to get there. We flew from Schiphol, Amsterdam to Catania airport, which was the best option for us, as we just had a week to explore. I personally love using Skyscanner to get the best deals, which is especially great if you have flexible dates. If you have more time, however, I would advise you to go by train.
But isn’t Sicily an island, you may ask? It is, but did you know you can take a train-ferry? Leaving from Napels, the train will drive onto the ferry at Villa San Giovanni, and continue over the island from Messina. This train ride is on my bucketlist, but in the meantime you can get the best deal and reserve your seats through Trainline. And please send me your pictures and stories if you get to travel on this train!
If you are finally there, you could continue traveling by train, but for the more secluded beaches, national parks and gluten free hotspots, I would advise you to rent a car. We rented one in advance, so we could pick it up directly at the airport. You can find the best deals at DiscoverCars, which we should have done. They make sure the whole process runs smoothly, so you will not be faced with any unfortunate surprises. We nearly missed our flight, because we booked at the worst car rental in town, known for charging exorbitant fees and fines, even if the damage to the car was already there.
Ristorante Quattro Quarti in Marina di Ragusa
The morning we flew into Sicily was an early one. Our plane left at seven AM, meaning we had to be at the airport as early as five. So, when we arrived, we were tired and starving. After we drove to our accommodation from Catania that day, we thus decided it was a good time to eat some pizza. As my sister and I are both gluten-intolerant, we looked for one that served gluten-free pizza of course. Ristorante Quattro Quarti in Marina di Ragusa was perfect for our first day: it had a terrace with a sea-view and turned out to be a winebar too! Even though we were the only ones there, the ambiance was warm and hospitable. And the food turned out to be amazing too: I had the pizza with thinly sliced swordfish, artichokes, and the sweetest yellow tomatoes I ever tasted. With a good glass of white wine and the sun in our faces, that afternoon was perfect. It was so good, that we ordered pizzas there again when we sat down to watch Eurovision later that week!
Salumeria Barocco in Ragusa
After a good night sleep, we decided to visit the town of Ragusa. Being part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is the perfect backdrop for your Italian summer dreams, and in our case: for more food. When we finally found the old city center of Ragusa after a little detour, we did not get further than a five-minute walk from our parking spot when we bumped into the Salumeria Barocco. Wessel and I looked inside while the rest of the family was taking in the views, and we immediately knew my mother would love it.
Inside, the Salumeria was a little shop selling all sorts of local produce: from wines to cheeses, and hams to olive oils, and even locally made limoncellos. They had a couple of tables inside and a small terrace on their doorstep, where everyone was eating from a big cheese and charcuterie platter. The rest loved it too, and we sat down immediately. We were helped by a lovely and cheeky waitress who informed us the produce was all local: meaning that it came from that area in Sicily, not the entirety of Sicily. She advised us to get two of the big platters, olives, and homemade caponata. As we all fell in love with the cheeses, we ordered their ricotta dessert with some dessert wine, and explored the rest of Ragusa afterwards feeling rosy.
Where to Stay in Ragusa
While we had a wonderful villa in which we could relax, swim (if it would not have been so cold and rainy), and cook our own meals, there are also wonderful hotels in the center of Ragusa where you could explore the city without needing a car. You could go all out at the Iblaresort Boutique Hotel, where one suite even has a whirlpool. But Sicily has many budget-friendly rooms on offer that still make you feel like you are in a fancy hotel, like Le Scale Sul Barocco with its old stone walls and comfy beds, or the baroque Risveglio Ibleo in the classic style of Sicily.
From the Salumeria to the Kitchen
Later that week, Wessel’s parents came to visit us too, and we decided to pick up some cheese from the Salumeria for us all to enjoy. Our favorites were the aged truffle and the younger pistachio cheese. As pistachio is grown all over Sicily, it can be found in many products, and is so much better than the pistachio nuts we buy at home. So, if you ever get to Sicily, make sure to try some of it! Also don’t forget the fresh ricotta, another staple in the Sicilian kitchen. We used it in some delicious grilled peach salads for the barbecue with Wessels parents, and feeling inspired, I made a ricotta-lemon-pistachio pasta later that week (a recipe you can find on this blog soon).
FRESCO è bottega in Marina di Ragusa
This is a restaurant not to be missed when you are staying close to Ragusa. Located in the harbor of Marina di Ragusa, restaurant FRESCO serves the best fresh fish and sushi. Although my parents were the only one who tried the sushi, I did try their salmon and tuna tartare’s and their saffron risotto. All of their dishes were just a little different than you are used to, choosing flavors you would not normally pick together, but which worked so well! Most of my family even tried their pulpo hamburger, which thus contained octopus tentacles, and was served on a black bun. The wine was amazing too (I yet have to experience bad wine in Italy), and we sat around a round table with a tree decorated with fairy lights in the middle. Although they are not a gluten-free restaurant, they do serve gluten-free bread and are very aware of the dangers small traces can be to people who are celiac.
Bye Spike in Modica
One morning we decided to have breakfast at a gluten-free bakery I had found online in Modica. Bye Spike was on the way to Noto, and I had read good reviews online. My sister and I went nuts and ordered croissants, a Nutella roll, a brioche bun, and a ricotta pastry. While the pastries and croissants were nice and satisfied my craving, they unfortunately were not the best ones I had had (the best ones can be found at this bakery in Amsterdam). They were very sweet and a little bit too moist. The croissants were not flaky like croissants are supposed to be, and the pastries were a bit on the dry side. However, the cappuccinos were very good, the staff was super sweet, and they had a wide assortment of gluten-free pasta’s and other products. All of the best quality. I took home some orzo (or risottini) and casarecce, which I used for my lemon-pistachio-ricotta pasta. If I could have taken a hundred boxes home with me, I would have!
An Afternoon in Noto
Noto is another town that is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site mentioned earlier, and it is just as pretty as Ragusa. As it is a little smaller, most of the hustle and bustle happens on the big street that forms the city center. After that big breakfast at Bye Spike, I was not feeling that hungry, but Wessel only had one croissant that morning. Preferring a savory breakfast anyways, we walked into the Sabbinirica à Putìa d’Ercole which sold several cheeses, marinated vegetables and cold cuts. With some delicious, but unfortunately gluten-filled bread, Wessel was able to choose all of his toppings. Going for some classic taleggio and smoked ham, the massive piece of bread looked delicious. I hope they sell gluten-free bread too, so if you are there, please ask them for me!
That afternoon it started pouring down, so we quickly picked a restaurant for lunch. Most of them were full however, so we had to walk to the end of the central street to find one with a table for six. Trattoria al Buco turned out to be a hidden gem. Located in an old, restored villa, it appeared we had lunch in what looked like an old bedroom or sitting room. With many baroque and neo-classical elements still present, I felt like we were having dinner while being transported back in time. The food was phenomenal too. While I ate rabbit – a local delicacy – my mother and Wessel both ordered an antipasti platter with sardines, octopus, and some delicious caponata. The entire menu seemed to consist of mostly local and traditional dishes paired with some locally sourced wines (although there were some imported ones present too), so I felt like we hit the jackpot with this one!
Food Tour and Wine Tastings Near Noto
Sicily, and Italy in general, are so great at gluten free food, that a food tour, cooking class or wine tasting could be suitable for anyone! While staying in Noto you could try this farm to table cooking class in the foothills of the city, or go for a wine tasting in Val di Noto where you can sample the best Sicilian wines. But a quick search on GetYourGuide reveals how much you can actually do in Noto: from food tours to Baroque walking tours, and even tours across the Etna, seeing them all makes me want to go back.
Levante Gelato Artigianale in Siracusa
We stumbled upon this one by accident, as we had just parked on the edge of Siracusa’s center, and I only needed to use the bathroom there. So, we ordered a coffee at Levante Gelato Artigianale so I could go, and there I saw they served both gluten-free cannoli and brioche buns! I had wanted to try cannoli forever, and Sicily was the perfect place for it, as it originally is a Sicilian treat. They filled mine with ricotta cream, and together with my coffee it was perfect! A few doors down we also saw a restaurant selling gluten-free streetfood, called Arancina Gluten-Free. We did not go in, but if you ever visit, please send me a picture! I would love to see what they have.
2024 Sicily Gluten Free Update: Although I was not able to try the arancini at Arancina Gluten-Free, I got an email from Michelle telling me all about these fried goodies. She tried the creamy smoked salmon one and a porcini mushroom one, telling me they all have different shapes so you can distinguish the flavors. In her own words, the Arancini here were amazing. She also recommended trying gluten free pizza in Avola and told me she was pleasantly surprised by the knowledge of locals and restaurants about gluten and celiac’s disease. Is that not reason enough to book your holiday to Sicily now? On top of having great travel taste, Michelle also makes incredible art, so check out her website here.
Oysters on Siracusa’s market
We spent our afternoon walking around Siracusa, and as we entered the city center, we bumped into a market selling fruit, vegetables, meats, and cheeses. But also: oysters. They had a deal we could not refuse, namely, one oyster for €2,50 with a glass of wine for free! They had some homemade vodka vinegar to top it off, and it really made our day. So, if you are ever in the neighborhood, try to find this stand and savor the moment.
Where to stay in Siracusa
I would have loved to explore Siracusa a little bit more: the history of the city combined with the wonderful GF options made for a great visit. A quick search shows many great properties to stay at in this gorgeous city. As Sicily can get very hot, the Coralli del Plemmirio with its modern pool and bright rooms would be the perfect stay during the summer months. Visiting during the colder seasons? Then the bright and colorful B&B Spigolehouse would be a perfect fit. Looking for something truly fancy à la White Lotus? Then consider the Caportigia Boutique Hotel, where modern meets baroque and simplicity meets luxury.
Osteria del Mare in Fontane Bianche
At the end of the afternoon, we drove down to Fontane Bianche to enjoy the sunshine on the beach, and to have a late lunch of course. We sat down at Osteria del Mare where they had a daily menu written on a blackboard. It was very hard to read however, so I had to ask the waiter to help me figure out what they served that day. Although they did not have gluten-free pasta, they could make any pasta with risotto instead. So, I chose the pasta vongole and a glass of wine to go with it. However, although the food was good, it was very expensive for what we got. That week we had spent less for more food. But the beach was very nice, and I would definitely recommend going to Fontane Bianche, although it may be best to bring your own lunch if you want to avoid expensive prices.
Prestipino and Mooddika in Catánia
Our last day we spent the morning in Catánia, before dropping off the car and getting on a plane back home. We started with a cup of coffee on a large terrace at Prestipino. There, we found out they had a large assortment of gluten-free bakes and other goods. I thought it would be the last time I could try arancini, a fried rice ball filled with ragù. My sister ordered something sweet, and both of our orders came in closed of plastic wrapping, making it safe for people with celiac’s disease. It is a lovely place to sit and watch both people and the Etna.
Later that day we decided to have a heavy lunch as we would be flying in the evening. We found a restaurant called Mooddika, where they had gluten-free pizzas and pastas. Because we were in a hurry, I did not take any pictures, but I can tell you the pizza was good, but huge. It had eggs, pistachio-pesto, smoked ham, and lots of vegetables. While I definitely enjoyed it, if you had to pick, I would recommend Ristorante Quattro Quarti in Marina di Ragusa instead, as their pizzas are a little thinner while this one was more like focaccia. My sister had a pasta carbonara, which was the best carbonara I had tasted in a long time. So, if you ever visit Mooddika, make sure to be very hungry when you get the gluten-free pizza, or share it with someone.
Final Thoughts on the Gluten Free Sicily Guide
It is very hard to go wrong with food in Italy, and due to their awareness of the effects of gluten on some people, many restaurants are able to accommodate these dietary wishes. Although my list is already pretty extensive, it just covers the southern and eastern part of the country and I have not visited many of the restaurants I found through my quick Google Maps search. Make sure to definitely check out the Salumeria in Ragusa, and do not forget to cook your own food once in a while, as nothing feels better than walking into a grocery store which sells the freshest produce. And even if you’re not the best cook, get some pasta, lemon, pistachios, and ricotta, and you got yourself a meal! With the ingredients Sicily has to offer, no one can go wrong. Buon appetito!
Want to get all of the best gluten free travel tips on your feed or in your inbox? Then stay up-to-date with all of my travel blogs in the future, among which some great activities and neighborhoods for you to explore, by following me on Instagram or signing up to my newsletter. The latter will get you a gluten-free world map, for free!
