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This February Wessel and I embarked on our annual skiing trip, marking our third time skiing and snowboarding together in La Norma, France. Once again, our time there did not disappoint! The weather was amazing, meaning we could drink endless cafés au lait in the sunshine and the snow was great on the higher altitude slopes. Most importantly, we felt terribly relaxed, because we had taken care of all the necessary arrangements in advance. I still remember our first-time skiing together, and how I felt overwhelmed by all the things I needed to plan. Especially when you are learning how to ski, or have never done it before, you just want to focus on overcoming your fears on the slopes.
That is why, after three years, I have comprised this skiing travel guide for you! Whether you are a newbie skier, or just want to know how to make the most of your time in the La Norma and Valfréjus skiing areas, everything you need to know can be found below. And hopefully I can convince you to explore this part of France with its dramatic mountains and good snow reliability.
All About Skiing Passes
This year, we skied for seven days. In fact, it is possible to buy a skiing pass for any number of days, but when you book for seven or more there are some perks! Besides getting access to the La Norma and Valfréjus ski resorts, you also get to choose to spend one day in Aussois, Bessans, Val Cenis and Bonneval. Furthermore, when you book your pass online, you will get a 5% discount on the 6, 7 and 8-days passes. You can book your passes well in advance here, also note that children up until the age of 12 will get an additional discount.
When you have booked your skiing pass, I strongly recommend you to get an additional skiing insurance. You can buy one for an additional €3,30 per day with your skiing pass, but most travel insurance plans also offer extra packages that you can buy for the specific period you will be on the slopes. Just note that these insurance plans only cover incidents on the slopes: when you go into the backcountry, there will be a rescue if you are lucky, but you will have to pay the big bucks for it.
The Ski Resorts
The province where the ski resorts of your pass lie, is the Maurienne, or the Haute-Maurienne to be precise. The valley sits on the edge with the Italian border and is mostly part of the Vanoise National Park. Known for its massive mountains, with the tallest being the Grande Casse at 3855 meters, it provides a dramatic landscape to enjoy (extreme) outdoor sports. It’s also part of the larger historic region of the Savoie, or Savoy, in the Rhone Alps, meaning you can find lots of good cheese, wine and hearty food that will make you feel warm and cozy. Every ski resort will therefore have good food, splendid views and great skiing opportunities, so how do you choose?
La Norma
Let’s start with La Norma itself, also known as one of our favorite places on earth. A small ski resort nestled in between forests and mountains, it has got great views and 65 kilometers of slopes. The cute village lies at the foot of the lower slopes, making it a perfect area for young families. I always really enjoy skiing from the top slopes above the tree line, into the forest: the smell of the fir trees just hits all the right spots. The vibe here is also very cozy and tranquil, with some great terraces to have drinks in the sun.
Valfréjus
Where La Norma kind of wraps around a mountain like a cone, Valfréjus lies between two mountains forming a kind of slanted half-pipe above the treeline. This makes it a great place for snowkiters, which, on a clear day, is a great sight to see! With 70 kilometers of slopes, it is slightly bigger than La Norma, but most of the lower red and black slopes have been closed off the past two years, meaning you always must take the green path down (which is not fun at all). You can go to the other side of the mountain, which is an amazing trail, but lies in an avalanche danger zone and is therefore also closed quite often. To be honest, I think both villages would make a great place for you to stay, as you have access to both of them, but I think the vibe in La Norma is just a little cozier. But I am probably biased!
Val Cenis and Aussois
When you go for the seven-day pass, you also get to pick another resort for a day. This year, we went to Val Cenis, which is much bigger with 125 kilometers (and thus much more expensive). It extends across a couple of mountains and has some epic slopes: along lakes and over peaks, it sometimes feels like you are in another world! If you really want to spend your whole day exploring, I recommend going here for a day. The year before, we went to Aussois, which is also glorious as it lies in the sun for most of the day. It is quite small, with 55 km of slopes, but has some amazing slopes over ridges and between steep rocks. The food here was also amazing: I had a homemade vegetable soup which was the best veggie soup I’ve ever had! I ordered it because I needed to eat something, but I was a broke student, and it was the cheapest thing on the menu, and thus arguably the best.
Bessans and Bonneval
The other two regions on the list are Bessans and Bonneval, which we have not visited yet. Bessans is mostly a Nordic skiing area (which means you are generally walking with a different type of ski), and Bonneval slopes are just 35 kilometers. Nevertheless, the villages are supposed to be quaint and offer unique mountain views as well. Whichever ski resort you choose, you will definitely enjoy yourself!
Where to Stay
While we were lucky enough to stay in an apartment provided by family, most people would probably rent an apartment close to the slopes! Overwhelmed by the amount of choice in the region? I have selected my favorites so far in the list below. (My real favorite is actually Le P’tit Grizzli, but I will never be able to afford that, it’s too gorgeous).
- Résidence Les Arolles lies next to the small swimming pool and barbecue park of La Norma. At just a 400 meter walk from the center of the village and the gondola, it is an adorable getaway for any couple, family, or group of friends.
- La Norma en Terrasse is also close to the swimming pool and the skiing lifts alike, but is more suited for a couple. With a cute terrace where you can eat your lunch and breakfast in the sun, and a modern feel, it will be the perfect place to unwind after a long day on the slopes.
- Résidence Goélia Les Balcons d’Anaïs offers a couple of different sized apartments, but more importantly, it has a pool! Now, I do not know if it is heated or even open in the winter, but it looks great in the pictures, doesn’t it?
Renting Gear and What to Pack
After having bought your passes and having booked your accommodation, renting gear is your next step. Unless you have your own skis or snowboard, the Ekosport Rent will be the best place for you. You can rent the skis on your first day, but I would recommend renting them in advance on their website. This will save you quite some money, and if you book them for a week, the seventh day will be free.
Once you have filled in the dates, you will need to choose a level of skis. From beginner to professional skis, the colors range from blue, to red, to black and to diamond. I rented the red ones in the first two years and switched to black this year. The latter made me go faster, and made it easier to turn quickly. The skis come with poles, and it is also possible to rent skiing boots and a helmet. If you are a snowboarder, you can also rent gear for that at Ekosport.
As to what to pack for a skiing trip, the following items are essential for your outfit on the slopes besides skis and skiing shoes: a skiing helmet, goggles, gloves, proper skiing socks, a thermal base layer, a fleece, and your outer layers. I have a skiing suit, but you can also opt for water resistant trousers and a jacket. The most important things are your helmet, goggles, and gloves, as those will protect you from bad injury to your head, eyes and fingers (skis are pretty sharp. Other items that must be on your packing list are comfy clothes to chill in after a long day of skiing, something fun to wear to a cozy restaurant, your toiletries, and something to read or games to play with friends or family in the evenings.
Skiing Lessons
Once you got your ski pass and accommodation sorted, it is time to book your skiing lessons, unless you are an experienced skier. I strongly recommend doing this, as it will not only boost your technique, but your confidence too! Although I had skied before, I was super bad at it, mostly because I was scared of the steep slopes before me. So, three years ago, I took three skiing lessons of two hours with my instructor Sophie and overcame those fears. In 2023, I took another lesson with her to polish up my skills, making me feel confident enough to go without lessons this year.
I think those lessons were the greatest investment I could have made during that holiday. While I could only ski blue slopes on the first day in 2022, I could ski the red ones on the very last, no problem. The skiing instructors at the École de Ski are great people: they are patient, and will not make you do things you are not ready for. When I took private skiing lessons, they were about €45 per hour, while group lessons tended to be cheaper. I opted for the private ones, because the instructor would just have their focus on you, meaning I needed fewer lessons in the end (group lessons are usually daily). When you are in La Norma, book your lessons with ESF La Norma, and you will not be disappointed!
Other Activities and What to Eat
If you want to skip the slopes for a day or afternoon, or just want to do something else after the lifts have closed for the day, then luckily for you, La Norma has plenty to do. From karaoke nights in La Bodega next to one of our favorite restaurants, La Dahu, to movie nights. Prefer to eat out every evening? Then go to my skiing food guide, as I have written about it extensively last week!
Haven’t had enough adventure yet? You can also enjoy the toboggan run called Norma Loops at the edge the village, which is a sled-like rollercoaster. It is enjoyable, and about five euros per ride, so I would definitely go at least once. If you prefer some history, you can also visit the Marie Therèse Castle which is a short car ride away from the village. We have never been there before, but it is on my list for when we come back!
But instead of going back to France, next week I will be taking you across the border to a true orange fiesta. So, make sure to follow me on Instagram to catch the latest updates. Prefer to get monthly summaries and other bits and bobs? Then sign up to my newsletter and get a gluten-free world map for free!
