Note! As I am gluten-intolerant and can have small bits of gluten, these restaurants might not be fit for those who are celiac. Always make sure to call ahead or inform yourself when going to any restaurant that does not advertise with a celiac safe kitchen.
You all probably know how it is: cities are usually great for us gluten-free travelers. They give us the opportunity to try gluten-free bakeries and dedicated gluten-free restaurants. In the countryside, these places tend to be harder to find. As I am gluten-intolerant and can handle small amounts of gluten, I was fine. For my celiac readers out there, it might get a little tougher when traveling to the Dordogne Valley. However! If you are gluten-intolerant like me, or speak quite some French, these next tips might be for you. And if you just want any tip you can find, the last two are perfect for anyone on a gluten-free diet!
We were in the Dordogne in July this year, and besides having done many fun activities, we have also had amazing food. The region is home to rich, hearty foods that often include meat, truffles, and you guessed it, bread. Dishes from the Dordogne to me are the recipes you make when you need some comfort food on cold, dark days. But they taste just as good in the sun on a summer’s day! Pair one of the many local wines with your dish and you are sure to have a great time.
The Marché Gourmande in Belvès
The accommodation we stayed at was a five-minute drive from Belvès, a small village to the south of the Dordogne River. While we had dinner here on our first night at a local restaurant, it was our meal on Wednesday-night that was the most memorable. The villages in the Dordogne are home to many markets that are worth visiting, like the market in Sarlat-la-Canéda, but none is more delicious and entertaining than the marché gourmande.
Literally translated to a gourmet market, a marché gourmande often hosts the same vendors that sold their goods in the morning, but now have turned some of those goods into delicious dishes. It is best practice to bring your own crockery, cutlery and glasses, as well as some wine if you don’t want to break the bank, and come early to claim a seat at the long tables that have been set up. We saw some people also brought their tablecloths and candles to create a very cozy vibe.
As you can see below, we tried the paella and oysters that were being sold by the fish vendor (the paella was actually recommended to us by our hosts). Both were mouth-wateringly good! The portions of paella that are being served are very big though, so if you choose to come here, I would order one for two people. We also ended up trying some sausages, spring rolls, and a charcuterie and fruit board. If all of this sounds to savoury to you, there were multiple stands selling deserts, ice-cream, and other sweets too.
Concerning gluten-free food, oysters and paella are of course gluten-free, but it was unsure where the dishes were cooked. I would make sure to ask all vendors about any possible traces of gluten, as well as to maybe bring some gluten-free food yourself, if worse comes to worst. Even if you can only drink wine, you are in for a good time!
Chez Elles in Saint-Cyprien
After having cycled in the afternoon, we decided to go look for a nice place to eat in the town of Saint-Cyprien. Another romantic and quaint little town, Saint-Cyprien has a handful of restaurants to choose from. One of the larger ones only served moules frites that night, which is an acquired taste of course, so we decided to try another restaurant a few doors down.
We were the only ones there when we got to Chez Elles, but after we sat down other people quickly joined us. The restaurant was very small, with an equally small kitchen and outdoor seating options. It was just what we were looking for! The dishes seemed to be seasonal and as they were written on a blackboard, apparently changed often. One of the dishes that interested me were the sarassin crêpes with salmon. Sarassin is the French word for buckwheat, and after I inquired whether the dish was completely gluten-free and traditional to the region, I ordered it ‘sans crudités.’
Thinking that the word resembled croutons, I thought they must have been pieces of bread. As I got my order, the salad did not have anything besides, well, salad. After a quick Google search, I found out crudités meant raw vegetables, and went back to explain my misunderstanding to the kitchen. They happily obliged my request, although I guess they must have been thinking I was a little weird for being so fickle about vegetables.
The food and wine were amazing. The buckwheat salmon pancakes were just the right consistency and flavor: soft because of the cream cheese, earthy because of the buckwheat and fishy because of the salmon. I did not have any stomach pains after, which to me was good enough to know everything indeed was gluten-free. Unfortunately, I did not inquire whether the kitchen was celiac-safe. If you visit (and you must), I advise you to inquire per phone beforehand.
Picnic at the Dordogne River
This is a short but sweet tip: go pack yourself some lunch and picnic on the banks of the Dordogne River. And: if you take your bathing suit with you, you can make a day out of it. Whatever you like to eat, there are often plenty gluten-free options in the supermarkets in France. While some might have more options than others, you will more often than not be able to find gluten-free bread and pasta there. We took a selection of cheeses, meats, and bread with us, as well as some orange juice, and enjoyed an afternoon in the sun by the river.
I personally love cooking, so you could also take this opportunity to explore the various markets of the Dordogne and find the freshest produce to cook yourself and your company a delicious meal. We made a simple salad with a variety of tomatoes – green, yellow, red, you name it – and plums one night while having dinner at our accommodation. One of the many joys of traveling is not only eating at fabulous restaurants, but also tasting all of the ingredients that are grown locally, and trying your hand at it.
Privilège du Périgord in Monpazier
Last but not least, our last night in the Dordogne, which was spent in the charming town of Monpazier. A town completely surrounded by its ancient walls and with its banners still hanging in the streets, it was a setting for a fairytale. After walking around for a bit, we once again had a handful of options, and we settled for a restaurant that was recommended to us by our hosts.
The restaurant Privilège du Périgord is situated in one of the old buildings within the bastide, and has a lovely courtyard filled with vines, flowers, and of course a couple of seating options. It was one of the more popular restaurants, as they only had tables left inside, where they displayed many paintings by local artists. However, we still felt like we were sitting outside, as the doors had been taken out, creating arches that let the summer-night air through.
The restaurant serves traditional food with a gastronomical twist. They offered a tasting menu of €32, and their menu was completely based on seasonal produce. Wessel and I decided to share our dishes so we could try as much as possible. We settled on the duck foie gras and smoked haddock as our appetizers, and two meat-based mains of which I cannot remember what they were exactly, other than that they were probably lamb and pork, and one of them was made with ras-el-hanout. Both were mind-blowingly good though!
Concerning our precious gluten-free diet, when I was there they had gluten-free bread, and were very understanding! Still, if you are celiac, make sure to call ahead so they can prep the kitchen for you. But, as they were super professional, I am sure that will not be a problem.
Final Thoughts
Granted rural France is a little bit harder to navigate with a gluten-free diet than big cities like Paris, it is still worth the trouble! Besides having so many things to do, there are so many delicacies and delicious dishes to try. From traditional restaurants to truffles, fresh tomatoes and local wines, your stomach will be satisfied both outside as at home!
